AL SHAHEEN -
Unfortunately Coco had hurt her leg, and neither John nor I actually ski, but Dan and Lia had a ball on the slopes – as Lia was only too delighted to remind us for hours, she got two stars for her achievements, while all Dan got was a pat on the back from the instructor! Pays to be 6.
St. Gervais was good fun; very little snow, but that didn’t dampen the enjoyment.
Being a genuine died-
And the food was fascinating: we got hooked on the local saucisson – more varieties of sausage than most women have knickers!
John did his usual trick of attempting to carve his name in his head – first of all
took a tumble 4ft down a stone staircase in the dark, then was so busy dusting his
trousers off, he walked head-
Of course it took some explaining at the visit to the dermatologist next week – he
was inspecting for solar keratoses, and was most intrigued by the evidence of self-
Back to boats, it was a bit worrying: as we flaked the main after a trip to Guadalope three weeks ago, the leach of the sail just came apart in my hands. Now I know I’m not that strong! And taking it to Franklin at A&F Sails confirmed that it wasn’t me – he says it could be UV damage, or it could be as a result of the washing done in SouthWest Harbor last year – too much bleach in the water?
The sails are only 5 years old, it shouldn’t have worn through yet, even though they have done 20 000 miles. Anyway, it seemed to be only one patch, so hopefully Franklin has been able to replace that.
We’d had a great time in Guadalope once again, taking Carol to the Botanical Gardens
and bus-
Off back to Antigua by the end of January, to collect our patched mainsail and launch Al Shaheen again. Will be good to get back on the water again!
Thursday 8th February 2007
Sometimes it seems like we live a lifetime in a couple of weeks! Back from the ice
and snow of St. Gervais, re-
We’d planned to do a quick spring clean, then shake the rum-
She screams chic elegance, is an art connoisseur’s delight, has a galley to die for
– and of course, 18 crew to keep the steel and chrome brilliantly glistening every
hour of the day. All for only $375 000 a week to charter – joining us anyone? If
you’re interested, click here to look her up on her website – she is incredible.
Although under full sail, (for you electronic wizards, takes 7 minutes to put up
2300 sq metres – 25000 sq ft -
So next to Guadalupe, as we’re starting now to go "down island" as the locals say,
and have just done our week's shopping -
Then on to the patisserie for bread -
So down the road we march to the veggie stall, looking very French with a long baquette
loaf sticking out the back of the shopping basket. The only veggies available, ever,
are whatever is in season -
Baskets now weighing considerably more, it's off to the boucherie -
Bit like our restaurant last night. Basic, plastic tables & chairs with the local
Guadeloupe check material (very pretty, have bought some for home tablecloths), but
positioned literally right on the beach looking out across the harbour. Beautiful.
The waitress slops over (wearing those slip-
Anyway, I guess that's what travelling is all about -
On the other hand, the general attitude is like the little old lady at the embroidery
shop – she spends 6 hours a day doing the most intricate delicate thread pulling
and lace-
Or the folks at the carnivale – full of enthusiasm for the incredible noise they were making – boy did they thump those drums! Bit like the local scout band, not too much in tune, but what they lacked in skill they certainly made up for in smiles and cajolery and pure enjoyment. And the girls’ homemade costumes were great – even if they did keep slipping and need to be yanked up in between twirls!
Once again we attempted to climb Soufrierre, the volcano on the island, and once again got beaten back by lashing rain and howling wind. John’s third attempt, my second. In disgust we took off for Les Iles des Saintes, only to spend the next day looking across the channel at a brilliantly clear mountain – would have been a glorious day to climb!
Oh well, can’t have everything: in compensation I have just blown my year’s budget for clothing in the local shops!
Getting slack here – still, time does fly when you’re having fun.
So to catch up – from The Saints we took off for Dominica, and spent more than a week cruising one of my favourite islands, then took off for Martinique to restock on French delicacies like croissants and pain chocolat – bang went my diet!
With the run-
Dominica is a magnificently lush island, thick green tropical vegetation and rain-
And of course there’s an active taxi market – every fourth person seems to be a taxi driver/guide wanting to take you out on a “tour”. So, tourists are game. So we did the tourist thing, and with John, Christine and Jane off Oriole, we took a guide around the island and up to Chaudiere again – most rewarding trek through banana plantations and jungle to a delightful small waterfall and pool. And Jane and I did a Tarzan act up the Indian River! And then from Roseau we did a hike up to Victoria Falls – and once again John managed to fall down the rocks, terrifying the little French girl directly behind him who was convinced he was dead, and banging his knee and elbow quite badly – still has “water on the elbow” three weeks later! He seems to cope with going UP the mountains very well – it’s the downward slide he can’t deal with!
We were thrown off the mooring in Fort Young very early one morning by the Dominican
Coastguard (no, we didn’t think they had one either!!) – Hugo Chavaz was arriving
for lunch, and security wanted no boats anchored nearby! Just as well we weren’t
flying a US flag – they’d have probably impounded us. According to the locals later,
he was there to offer them a new oil refinery in return for votes against Bush in
the UN – what it takes to make the world work! Still, they were more official-
From Dominica we hit St. Pierre, and here we encountered “Carnivale” head-
They were led by a truck loaded with massive speakers, towing its own generator for the disco music!! The parade marched up and down the streets for probably 4 hours, collecting more and more spectators with each circle – all in great high spirits, or should I say, filled with much spirit (rum was available everywhere on the street!) Each day was a different theme – my favourite was the “Red Devils”, hundreds of very tall, very black, very slim men dressed in the most outlandish drag!
There was an effigy of ‘Vaval’, the Carnival king – and that was the only time we did get a bit nervous, as there was suddenly a lot of exuberant chucking people into the bay and daubing people with an oily mixture of ash (of course, this all ties up somehow with Ash Wednesday and the beginning of Lent, but I couldn’t quite get the spiritual significance!!). Still, all in all, a very interesting experience. Not a patch on Trinidad or Rio, I’m sure, but fun all the same.
We took advantage of the lull in festivities over the next few days to do some hiking and exploring, driving up Mt. Pelee (fortunately it was not too hard to convince The Man his knee was still too sore to climb this volcano!!), and then across to the east side of the island. Martinique is also a very beautiful island – very French again, quite prosperous, quite sophisticated in comparison to most of the Caribbean islands. Very Creole; wonderfully spiced food that makes it very very difficult to make a choice!
It was actually hard to drag ourselves away from St. Pierre – although we did have a couple of altercations with other boats anchoring too close. St. Pierre has a very narrow ledge of shallow water on which to anchor, and everyone is desperate to hang their hooks here rather than out in 60 feet or so, which makes for some terse conversations between skippers at times. But when it’s blowing a hoolie and you have fenders out all around the boat to hold you off from the boat ahead – it’s time to move!
Off to the bottom end of Martinique to St. Anne – and suddenly we’re in little England!
Well, English is the language heard on the docks again instead of non-
Not to say it’s not still French, with some great characters – like the restaurateur in le Donette. We had a group of 8 for lunch, and he brought 2 menus. When asked for more, he gave a great Gallic shrug and a spiel about “buut messieurs can see – I haf onlee one shirt, onlee 2 hands, I am small, no more menoos!” When asked later, with some trepidation, whether it was possible the place could stretch to 2 glasses each (one for water, one for wine) we got another shrug before he roasted the waitress for giving us the water first so we had used the ‘wine’ glasses for water. “Now u mus drink ze wine from small glas!” No little pickers to get the lobster meat out of the shell – just another shrug and a pointing out our hands –didn’t God give us these first was the obvious implication! But wonderful food!
But the French have a very different approach to life – certainly here on the islands!
Wandering around the market I was browsing through the dozens of specially brewed
rum concoctions – every stall has its own recipes, all closely guarded family secrets,
and it’s fascinating trying to work out what’s in what bottle. So when the lady stall
holder started giggling as I spelt out the label, I wasn’t surprised, just kept on
spelling C..L..I..T..O..turbo?? I asked with my eyebrows raised, trying to imagine
the fruit involved. Oui, oui, she giggled merrily. Ees ver’ ver’ good for ladies
– turr..bo-
It’s blowing up this weekend, so we’ve moved into Marin for some shelter, and will
stay here amongst friends until probably Sunday, when we’ll take off for Bequia.
Oh, much excitement – we have managed to book tickets for the World Cup Cricket warm-
Friday 16th March 2007
People are fascinating – some good, some bad, some indifferent. And some weeks you seem to hit them all!
St. Vincent & the Grenadines has shown us many – from bad John-
But the next day we ferried over again, this time to see England play Australia in
one of the warm-
We took a walk over the island – one nice thing about Bequia and the Grenadine Islands is they are eminently walkable, side to side and lengthwise!
And met Brother King, the turtle man. Sans electricity, this little man has built
up a sanctuary for turtles – he collects turtle hatchlings at one-
Leaning over the tanks, we were very startled when a total stranger rushed in and
asked John to sign his t-
Clifton on Union Island is lovely – sparkling turquoise blue water over white sand, reefs all around, little palm islands dotting the scene – real picture postcard stuff. And here we met Janti – tasked with the job of clearing the beaches of mounds of used conch shells left by fishermen, he solved one problem by moving them out, shell by shell, and dropped them on a small reef about 600 metres from shore. As the shells piled up, so did the sand – and soon he had his own little island! A few walls later, installation of a solar panel to generate electricity for a fridge, some palm trees transplanted – and he has his own beach bar on his own island – all achieved with nothing much more than hard work and ingenuity. And his marketing is very simple – have two rum punches, and you’ll get the third one free – no wonder so many dinghies stagger back!
Also on Union Island, we discovered the steel-
My business mind boggles – for the investment of a few old scrap oil drums and probably some weeks work under the shade tree, he must make a good living per drum!
And just a bit further down the road are rough shelters and piles of chipped stones. Atop each pile is a local woman, armed with a mallet, merrily breaking big rocks from the quarry right behind her into small sizes – this is used as building material for both housing and roads on the island. Incredible!
Close-
Catch-
Lots of running around, getting Aunt Va into a very good care home, settling her
in, sorting out her home as much as we could – and discovering some incredible stuff
about the family from all her notes attached to everything! Finally in July we felt
able to make a trip to South Africa, where we fell into the usual routine of maintenance,
building projects and family visits! Spent some time in a very wet and cold Cape
Town, married my daughter Tracy off – a wonderful hippy wedding complete with VW
Beetle and 30-
. . . and John put in another donkey boiler, built staff toilets and shower, a workshop
for himself, and put in some super security for the cottage we re-
Then it was back to the UK and final preparations to leave by early November to begin
our 2-
The unexpected death of Aunt Va (although how unexpected can it be at 101 years of
age??) delayed our departure, as John was executor of her estate. Then in early December
Jenny made an emergency trip back to South Africa to move her mother into a Frail
Care facility – all very traumatic and time-
Still there were upsides: John got to spend Christmas with his grandsons in Sarratt (above) while Jenny trekked across to Vancouver where her SA family were visiting her Canadian family – 4 grandies in one spot at the same time (see left), pure bliss!
And I almost forgot – we bought a Landrover! 2003 model, built for use in Afghanistan but stored at the onset of war in Kuwait and never used – has 300 kms on the clock. Eventual plan is to drive her (named Lavinia) to S.Africa – but we’ll take her for a spin in Bosnia in July 2008 first, just to get the hang of it. Life’s never boring when you retire, is it?
However, cold is not our scene, and it has been a long, cold winter these past 9 months! Can’t wait for the Caribbean again.
Friday 26th January 2007
Sun, sand, sea and…snow?? Global warming gone bananas?? This is not the John I usually see!
No, actually we took a break from the sunshine, and took off for a week in “Les Alpes” to meet up with John’s son & family from Australia, who were busy participating in that big Aussie sport, skiing! Dan, Coco and 6 year old Lia had come over to France for 3 weeks, and as I’m fairly determined not to be conned into sailing Al Shaheen down the island path through the Pacific and across to Aus, seemed like a good time to get together on neutral ground.